Chasing mice around the circle of life

Written by Martin Kirby on October 28th, 2011

The circle of the Mother’s Garden seasons is a kaleidoscope of charms.
I should have been telling of the stirrings of autumn a month ago, of that bluster and keenness that shakes the farm from summer stupor, but the cloudless calm lingered over Iberia to the end of October and the heat only waned by gentle degree.
Rain finally came this week, and we have waltzed in puddles, and for three nights the  cold has prompted us to welcome our wood burner back to life. For months, though, clear skies have given an edge to far mountains and radiant Jupiter defined the night hour.

The daily round includes giving the horses their night feed at about 10pm, and I never make haste. For weeks I have tracked the largest planet in our solar system as it has slowly overhauled the moon, three of its own satellites visible with my binoculars.
And when I wake there is Jupiter again, framed in the top window of our vaulted bedroom, as still as the air.Daytime temperatures are still circa 65 degrees F, 28 degrees C, and it would be easy to be lulled back to sleep in the belief that there is ample time, but we are wiser after ten mountain winters.  And should we ever be tempted to doze then the creatures that cohabitate these ten acres prompt us to pull our fingers out.
La Petita our plump pony has grown her inch-deep winter coat; the barn swallows and meadow-feeding hoopoe are long one, the latter gifting us a striped feather; snakes can been seen in search of winter lodgings, one by our friends’ back door; and the mice have moved in. The pantomime season comes early at Mother’s Garden, and this year the intelligent little rodents who secretly rule the world have given me an exceptional run-around.
First the mice thought it would be a wheeze if they moved into our holiday cottage and surprise some lovely Americans from Idaho. That backfired slightly because the Americans were of the log cabin, wild-side variety and didn’t bat an eyelid. I, though, blew a gasket, which was probably reward enough.

The cottage was supposed to be 100 per cent proof. We have had sparrows under the tiles for years and nothing more alarming than the very occasional creature wandering in – and out – through an open door.
A mouse had made an appearance the week before, during the previous visitors’ sojourn at Mother’s Garden, and was duly trapped and released far away.
“Ha, well, there you have it. Or rather I do….Absolutely nothing to worry about,” I said, laughing like Basil Fawlty, backing out of the front door, the trap behind my back. “Just the one. All sorted. Won’t happen again. Goodness – it that the time?”
Then, as we were cleaning in preparation for the Americans to roll up I had serious doubts. There was evidence, tiny bits of chewed wood, on the stairs. This sent me on a frantic inch by inch analysis of every roof beam until a visiting helper pointed at my turn-ups.
I was, as ever, resplendent in tatty farm jeans, torn t-shirt and mad hair.
“I think it’s you,” she whispered politely.

Fair cop. I had been up the land for an hour that morning, sawing my way through a significant pile of logs, so my turn ups were brim full with sawdust. Which was a relief, of course, and I lapsed once more into the naive belief that mice are solitary. Fool.

It turned out to be a classic two-pronged attack with a farmhouse invasion by a battalion, which came to a head when one scout popped out from behind the lamp on Maggie’s side of our bed  …. while she was in it. I had just figured out the cottage point of entry (the air vent beneath the fireplace which I should have covered with a fine grill seven years ago) so Maggie decamped down there for three nights while I sat up, blearily bemused.
Unlike the cottage, the ancient farmhouse has innumerable accesses, but there had to be one in our room because on the second night I closed the door and I still had company. Could it be the air vents in our chimney? Was that gnawing sound coming from behind the power socket?  In the end I deduced from the droppings where I should launch a counter attack. I ripped out a length of ill-fitting skirting board – which had one of those wafer thin gaps beneath it that mice can inexplicably squeeze through – to find a cavity the size of a shoe box. It was invasion HQ. A large bucket of cement later all is quiet once more, and Maggie has come home.
You should have seen the rodent rodeo today, though, when we decided in the last the light to move the compost bins. Our 400 litres of wine had fermented and we had four barrow loads of grape pulp in front of the barn to depose of before our insatiable free-range chickens became hopelessly inebriated.
That meant doing the compost shuffle – cleaning everything out, setting aside what was ready to use and mixing the pulp with half rotten compost. We have one main bin constructed out of old pallets and I wish you could have witnessed Biba the dog when I lifted up the base pallet. Scores of mice fanned out like the Monty Python sketch of the 100 metres for people with no sense of direction. Biba was like someone trying to catch several balls at the same time and ending up with nothing.

As for the chickens, there is still enough pulp on the ground to make them smile inanely and to distract them from ruining our persimmons.
Our largest, well-watered main persimmon tree, sagging with fruit, sits in a pool of rich green grass on the otherwise parched little terrace in front of the house. For more than a week the chickens have been sailing around in the long grass, taking it in turns to launch themselves several feet into the air to peck at the fruit: Surreal to watch, like some sort of improbable fairground entertainment.
With their entourage of sparrows they can, as some of you will know from experience, wreak havoc in the vegetable patch if they can breach the defences. I spent more than an hour yesterday fortifying some winter lettuces, only to come out of the barn with a bucket full of pulp to see it had taken the pea brains less than an hour to defeat me.
An hour or two in the garden, though, is good for the soul, isn’t it? The garlic and cabbages are in, and much of the wild fennel is out. The courgettes are still flowering, just, and Maggie has decided we will keep the far end of the plot clear to see if the rocket has re-seeded itself.
I would like to say that our autumn tomatoes, now at the top of the canes, are our best of the year, but that wouldn’t be true. Amid the brambles beside the septic tank Maggie has found a mountain of self-seeded cherry tomatoes. The prettiest discovery of all, though, was hiding in the watering can.
It is an orthoptera, but is this star-burst of breathtaking colour with the iridescence of coral a grasshopper or a cricket? I think it is a variety of grasshopper, on account of the shorter antennae and that it was around during the day. Or was it holed up until nightfall? I am never absolutely sure when trying to identify insects or birds for that matter, so answers on a postcard, all you entomologists out there.
I have carried out my annual roof inspection and attempted to cleanse our chimney by means of the highly sophisticated technique of attaching an old axe head to a long piece of rope and rattling it down the pipe. Needless to say it got stuck and I had to dismantle the pipe with sooty consequences inside the house – precisely the mess I was trying to avoid in the first place.
But my couple of hours on the roof had other worth. There were 18 cracked tiles that needed repairing, two footballs to retrieve and a loose cap to one of the chimneys that could have toppled in the next gust.
I took my time. I always do when I’m up there. You get a different perspective of familiar ground. James Taylor sings of the roof being his place of peace and solace – alright, a roof terrace with stair access, but you know what I mean  – and I understand what how he feels. When I lived at Barley Cottage overlooking Aldborough’s Green, I’d find any excuse on a still summer’s day to check the pointing on the old stacks, then sit on the ridge and watch the clouds.

 

Carrot cake with that Mother’s Garden difference

Written by Martin Kirby on October 9th, 2011

Carrot cake with walnuts – so so yummy.
This nutty variation has been enjoyed repeatedly in recent weeks with our hard-earned Mother’s Garden afternoon tea, and  made for us by two tremendous farm helpers Natalie Kinsley and Andrei Solomka from Norfolk, England. Among the many farm tasks we are collecting walnuts now and so it makes sense! Delicious.

Ingredients

100g Self-raising wholemeal flour
100g butter
100g soft brown sugar
2 eggs
100g carrots
2 handfuls of raisins (soaked in orange juice for half hour, minimum)
50g ground almonds
100g walnuts
1 teaspoon grated ginger
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 180 C, 350 F. Grease a 20-cm round cake tin and line it with greaseproof paper.

In a bowl mix  100g of softened butter and 100g of soft brown sugar until fluffy.

Beat in 2 eggs and gradually add the flour to the mixture. Grate 100g of carrots into the mixture. Add the soaked raisins. Add 50g ground almonds. Roughly chop 100g of walnuts and add. Mix well.

Add 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon and grated ginger into the mixture and stir well.

Spoon into the cake tin and bake for 40-45 minutes. The cake should be golden brown. When cold, top with icing – make this by simply mixing icing sugar with soft cream cheese until sweet to your own taste.

 

Great spirit of Don Quixote rides again

Written by Martin Kirby on September 27th, 2011

The low sky bears a tufty beard of grey, and several people remark on a vast rip in the cloud that runs as straight as a lance. I am sitting on a wall outside the theatre, looking up in search of characters as my imagination canters to the horizon.
How strange that, on that September Sunday of all days, the breathless blue of the month is shaken by the drama of a great cumulus and wind charging down from the plains of La Mancha.
It is as if the curious spirit of Don Quixote has come to see.
That most complex, chivalrous and absorbing of all literary characters, gifted to the world by Miguel Cervantes on pages so wondrously jewelled with genius, has filled our minds for weeks: Now our hearts too.
As I write a crowd of contrast moves around me. We are outside the 600+ seat theatre in our small town of Falset. A matinee begins in an hour. I, still rudderless and adrift among the emotions that welled during the sell-out first performance the night before, know what is in store.
Half the people are a hum of ease and expectation, a happy muddle of small huddles, tickets in hand. The other half cut through them in a patient, long line of pondering that leads to the box office.
Will there be enough tickets? Painted faces pop out of the stage door to check.
La Corranda, our local, acclaimed dance theatre company founded and directed by Josep Ahumada, is working its magic again.
What he and his core of dedicated dancers bring to their tiny, mountainous home region of The Priorat – and carry across Catalonia and beyond – is exceptional, enthralling art, infused with a commitment and originality worthy of any stage. And the word is spreading.
At the penultimate three-hour rehearsal, close to the zenith of three years of preparation, television cameras astutely acknowledged what art is happening here, and the entreating for the company to visit other theatres has already begun. Given the unrivalled worldly fame of the story they have chosen to portray this time who knows how far they will go.
Why so glowing, Martin?
Our children, Ella and Joe, two faces on the stage among the many, have learned a great great deal from Josep (Cervantes) and the likes of Pau Ferré (Quixote or Quixot in Catalan), Jordi Banqué (Sancho), Elisa Barceló, Jordi Vaqué and Marta Cardona – how I wish I could list every one of these 40 adults and young people – not least the unforgettable joy and fulfilment that come with shared dedication; the immeasurable rewards of aspiration, perspiration and courage; and the infinite value of the arts.
But that is not why.
La Corranda’s portrayal of Don Quixote, dedicated by Josep to his late teacher, co-director and friend Eduard Ventura Díez, the leading exponent of traditional Catalan dance who died in March, could have been simplistic. It is not.
Somehow they have imprinted upon it, beyond the cruelties and mocking, the warmth and depth of glorious friendship, a tenderness, and a sense not of a fool but a man who craves a greater glory.  Where, ultimately, do sympathies lie? How endless the range of meaning? And, as between the lines of the pages, the character of Cervantes himself stands before you.
Bravo. La Corranda. Bravo.
Have you read it? No doubt a great many of you have. It is accepted that there has been no writer to equal Cervantes and Shakespeare since their deaths in April, 1616.  And conductor Simon Rattle summed up Cervantes’ literary masterpiece quite beautifully when, choosing it as his Desert Island book on Radio 4, he said “If there is any novel that contains the seed of every other novel it is Don Quixote”.
We have already found our copy to re-read, and we talk of if – how – La Corranda with its two Norfolk dancers could present their Don Quixote in England, at a festival in our home county, maybe.

 

Summer softness and lessons learned

Written by Martin Kirby on September 13th, 2011

September 12. The children returned to Latin school this week after three months of ease, and we try to re-adjust. Not easy. Summer peace and heat linger. It is still 80+ degrees in the shade, almost still enough to hear the beat of the crimson dragonflies’ wings.

Two weeks ago the echoes of fading fiestas had been drowned out by the quiet of contentment, of slow-blinks, gentle greetings and steady hearts as the holiday gently came to a stop. Now, in the melee of school runs with its pinch of reluctant urgency, I find myself reflecting on summer lessons learned.

In August the pond weed in the old wash pool bloomed with a few tiny cream flowers – blooms as gentle in hue as the sensibly sparse street lights of the mountain villages that neither blind the night nor squander.

Better. Such softness is like a dream. You can make out quite enough without the haste of detail, and around every corner in the immeasurable three hours either side of an August midnight you will find young and old have pulled chairs, tables and pushchairs into the middle of narrow streets to, well, be.
Some do more.

An hour inland, at the end of a winding journey when we encountered as many foxes as we did other souls, the village of Cabaces pulsed gently with these promises. It is one of the more remote of communities, yet no less alive than any other huddle of homes in this mosaic of ridges and valleys, forests, vineyards and groves.

It was nearing 11pm. We were taking Ella, who had just finished a dance rehearsal, and her friend Celia to watch the latest round of the summer inter-village five-a-side soccer tournament. Yes, 11pm. They had kicked off at 7pm with an estimated finish time of 4am. This was the fifth tournament, and high above the nest of soft lights, just above the village pool, more than a hundred people looked down on teenagers tearing back and forth after the ball with – all being considered – startling energy and skill.
Well, this is Barca FC territory after all. Boys dream. Some believe. It is more than sport. One of her classmates has just signed for premier league team Osasuna.

Ella has been gliding these summer mountains better than the eagles because, I sense well enough, there is something immeasurable about this time for her, of growing up amid a loving group of friends in a treasure trove of simplicities.

Meanwhile I, her chauffeur, once fully awake with the assistance of cold water, am content to weave slowly along the lanes in the company of a cheese moon and the endless heaven, while hoping for the sparkle of animal eyes. Time aplenty to reflect on how, as parents taking our young children to live a radically different life, we have fundamentally changed their world…..or have we?

 

Fabulously fruitful fine food fair

Written by Martin Kirby on September 9th, 2011

We are home again in Catalunya, tired but so pleased with the contacts made during our three days at the Speciality Fine Food Fair, Olympia, London.

More and more people are taking a fresh look at olive oil!With the help of Tina from Priorat Provenance in Yorkshire, and Tamsin and Andy from Offshoot in Cornwall, we built on our top 3 Gold Stars Great Taste Award by linking up with a host of leading delis and chefs from all over the United Kingdom who want bulk fresh olive oil.As the orders come in we will keep you posted on where you can buy our arbequina oil and we will continue to add to our list of top chefs for whom it is an essential ingredient.

Today we can announce our latest customer is Alex Rushmer, runner up in Masterchef 2010. His restaurant is the hugely popular Hole In The Wall at Little Wilbraham between Cambridge and Newmarket – see www.justcookit.co.uk.

Are you a chef or deli looking for something different, something wonderful for your customers? Just drop us a line and we will explain how you can get the very best for as little as £7 a litre.

 

The English riots touch home

Written by Martin Kirby on August 14th, 2011

I have been asked to write two short articles for publication here in Catalonia, giving my thoughts on the August unrest in London and other English cities.
Why? In both my books, No Going Back and Shaking The Tree, and in other articles, I have talked of my anxieties about the society we left a decade ago, and about the one we are now weaved into. Both can learn a great deal from each other.

These are the words that were published today, in Catalan, in the newspaper El Punt.

“Am I shocked? Who isn’t? Am I surprised? No.
By the time you are reading this I earnestly hope that the city streets of wonderful, multi-cultural Britain will be alive with the faces and voices of undefeatable community; not rioters, not looters, and mostly certainly not post-trauma, venomous calls for a policing-only solution and the damning of a generation.
The question mark casts an enormous shadow over a society where unease has been palpable for years.
What unease? I do not know anybody (except those who have had a conscience bypass operation) who denies the doubt and, worse, the fear about the warping of values and the communication catastrophe between generations.
Beyond the lawlessness and brutal criminality of an evil minority who have sucked impressionable youth into the maelstrom of the mob with life-wrecking consequences, the roots of it lie in the breakdown of family across several generations. The street holds more sway than the home. Parents and teachers are frightened. Disregard for “authority”, anarchy and criminality are cool.
There is little hope for some young people. They have precious little or no childhood. They have been farmed commercially, schooled beyond the classroom in greed and self, exposed to gross violence and made to think they know when they cannot. What examples there are of respect and tolerance in general are drowned out by a non-stop stream of excess  and “celebrity” in stark contrast to a lack of realistic aspiration and opportunity, and less and less love, security and guidance of family. Not just the youth of today. The youth of yesterday too.
What relevance does this have here in Catalonia? Living in a society with family at its cultural heart, where the belief in time for family and food – sitting down together every day to eat/talk/reconcile/laugh/communicate across the generations – is a cornerstone of positive life. Never devalue that. Never stop trying to do that.
Britain’s (and other aspiring nations’) single-minded obsession with materialism, turning a blind eye to morally indefensible policies if it is in the economic interest, has come home to roost. That said, most people know this and crave less pressure, more equality and the glue of a far more supportive existence, in their street and in Britain generally.
And, most importantly of all, the vast majority of young people are truly remarkable, despite the example of society.”

 

The story behind our award-winning olive oil

Written by Martin Kirby on August 1st, 2011

It is days like these that I file in my storehouse of priceless joy.

We drifted through the olive trees, young and not so young, dipping our shoulders into the heat of the late-day sun, our feet labouring across the tilled, dry earth, our shadows moving along the ancient terrace wall as shadows have done for centuries.
They had come at half past six on the dot as asked, in a convoy of little cars and on a tractor of appropriate colours (green and yellow), snaking the mile along the dusty track from their homes to a grove with views to eternity.
The village cooperative members were at ease in familiar company, but with the soft voices of uncertainty as I stepped forward to address them.

Great news is usually the easiest to impart, but I was an Englishman without the buoyancy of a prepared speech, wading into the rip tide of Catalan grammar. Impart it I did, though, adequately it seemed, for smiling couples embraced and pulled their children to them, and ripples of happiness rolled through the grove.
And here they are, the Priorat farming families of Mother’s Garden Fresh Extra Virgin Olive Oil, the faces behind the wonderful fresh juice from the wisest of fruits that judges in the 2011 Great Taste Awards described as “absolutely stunning”.
How good to know, how wonderful to be just one of two olive oils on sale in the UK to get 3 Gold Stars in these coveted awards – and how important as we continue to spread the Mother’s Garden olive oil message of freshness, provenance, flavour and goodness.
Ella took a multitude of photographs for you as we raised glasses of gold and toasted the moment, while laughing children ducked and dived and tucked into bread and olive oil. Maggie and I chatted with proud president Manel and many more, unable to gauge the distance travelled since we left England in January 2001.

It was, I reflected as everyone meandered back to their cars and to the steady rhythm of their rural lives, a deliciously gentle, community triumph of cooperation, pride, and ancient wisdom.

When we first walked the boundary of our future home in 2000 and looked at the myriad of Mediterranean challenges, we realised our first learning curve would be an olive harvest. Little did we know, though, how important the fruit would become.
In truth we rapidly became neurotically obsessed with the vines, thinking these would yield a greater harvest, but you live and learn.
Olive oil like wine is at the heart of life here (arbequina olive oil to be precise) and in those first years we grew to love the sharing of November harvests with neighbours, the moment of pressing and bringing home enough fresh juice to last the year; of the gold/green goodness in the pourer that sits in the middle of the kitchen table – gold and green for the colour of the fresh oil can magically change with the light. Friends from England tasted it, saying they could not believe the difference, the beautiful scent and the rich flavour. They wanted it at the heart of their diet too, so a fledgling business that was never planned took wing.
Our county of the Priorat is tiny – 192 square miles compared to Norfolk’s 2000 – with scattered clusters of houses huddled around churches on unforgiving terrain of slate and soil. Lanes snake through the valleys linking the 22 villages and one small town, Falset, all dominated by the Monstant ridge to the north and the Mola and Santa Marina mountains to the south.

It is an undulating tapestry of vines, olives,.almonds, hazels and swathes of forest, and is world-renowned for wine production with two denominations, the DOQ Priorat and DO Montsant.
Private investors have spent countless millions in recent years developing new vineyards and building grand cellars, but the olive groves mostly remain the domain of the small village farmers and their cooperatives; people like Manel and the close knit community of El Masroig with whom we work.
The cooperatives make outstanding wine too. During our decade here we have seen them face up to the modern world and, like Spain generally, begin to counter the marketing dominance of Italy.
There is a way to go, but life is coming back to the villages.

Among Ella’s photographs are some of the young people that run the mill – Carles, Rafel and the team who are striving to put the village and their produce on the international map.

Here the farming has changed little since the cooperative was formed in 1917, with each family owning one or more of the plots that ring the village, while the dramatic, rocky terrain with its narrow terraces means it will undoubtedly stay that way.

Spain is by far the world’s largest producer of olive oil, with groves covering an area the size of Norfolk, Suffolk, Cambridgeshire and most of Lincolnshire. On the narrow Priorat mountain terraces farmers cultivate the small and hardy arbequina olive trees alongside their almond trees and vines, in contrast to the different beauty and wonder of the rolling estates in other parts of this country, where other important varieties are also grown, notably Picual, Hojiblanca, and Manzanilla.

The majority of villagers here are senior, it has to be said, but some young people are returning to the land with its toil and risk. It is, indeed, arduous, dangerous work through fiery summers and bitter winters.  Earlier this month a young man from the village was killed when his tractor rolled, a tragedy that is not uncommon on this extreme landscape.
Beyond our wish to widened appreciation of fresh arbequina olive oil and to support our neighbours, we believe firmly that the world still has a great deal to learn about this ancient food that’s credited continuously with health values, the most recent being a French study into the reduced risk of stroke.

It is better understood that the Mediterranean diet is associated with a lower risk of dying from cardiovascular disease. Is this because, by definition, if you consume a significant amount of olive oil then you are eating a healthier diet in general? Because of the cost of olive oil are all regular consumers participating in studies likely to be able to afford a better diet in general?
If, beyond the wonderful flavour of fresh olive oil, we are going to clearly define the tremendous goodness of simple olive juice then we all need to push for more and more research. That is one of our aims, in tune with spreading the understanding that it is simply a juice, and that knowing when it was pressed is as important as knowing where and with what care.
Meanwhile we offer the story, the faces and the best olive oil, all of which I will be more than happy to talk about when we are back in September to be part of the Speciality Food Fair at Olympia on September 4,5 and 6. If you are a chef or deli/farm shop owner and plan to attend, come and see us on stand 2.

 

Delia Online flags our fresh olive oil as a favourite

Written by Martin Kirby on July 25th, 2011

Our fresh olive oil is one of Delia’s favourite ingredients – and her popular website has featured Mother’s Garden and our efforts to get everyone to take a fresh look at this wonderful food.
See – http://www.deliaonline.com/news-and-features/mothers-garden-olive-oil.html
Want some too?
Just drop us a line – click here.

 

“Absolutely stunning” say Great Taste judges

Written by Martin Kirby on July 22nd, 2011

Absolutely stunning.”

“Smooth rounded flavour.”

“lovely peppery aftertaste.”

Excellent.”

That is what the judges in the 2011 Great Taste Awards had to say about Mother’s Garden fresh extra virgin olive oil – only one of two olive oils on sale in the UK to be awarded three gold stars.

How do they judge the entries? Go to http://brightblueskies.com/great-taste-awards-being-a-judge to read just how comprehensive the tasting was on the 7482 entries this year.

Meanwhile, if you are a UK chef, deli, farm shop or private customer we would love to hear from you. Try fresh olive oil and taste the difference.

Click here to read more about our oil. Click here to get in touch.

 

3-Star Gold Award for fresh extra virgin olive oil

Written by Martin Kirby on July 8th, 2011

We can announce that Mother’s fresh extra virgin arbequina olive has won the highest standard in the UK Great Taste Awards 2011, one of only two olive oils on sale in the UK to get this top award.

A huge thank you to all the chefs, deli and farm shop owners and the hundreds of private customers who have supported us. The fresh olive oil message is getting through – the very best olive oil need not cost a fortune, and can be at the heart of a healthy, wonderful daily diet, just as it is for us here in the Mediterranean region.

See our olive oil page for more details. We are bottling and shipping again now so get in touch and taste the difference for as little as £7 a litre at 2011 prices!