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Christmas thoughts from The Garden

Monday, December 19th, 2011


The wood burner crackles with life after damp mornings of downpour or mist, but still no hard frost as, overall, the weeks and days running up to Christmas have been in contrast to the economic storm embroiling the continent.
I continue to track Jupiter at night and ponder on Voyager, the space probe that is now 17,391,000,000km away and on the point of leaving our little solar system. Closer to home it is a metre to the kettle that’s coming to the boil behind me, a kilometre to the village, 100 kilometres to Barcelona and 1300 kilometres to my fading Dad.
Distance; a measure between two points; an incalculable feeling that can make heart and mind pound back and forth along the boundaries of reason.
The night sky here in the Priorat mountains, as in some quarters of England where one is spared the gross urban addiction to blinding electric light, is hugely relevant, numbingly complex, bewitching beautiful and no help in the matter of life. Or maybe it is.
Regardless of creed or continent I wonder how many of the 7 billion inhabitants of this tiny planet look at Jupiter and the Milky Way at some point during their journey and strive to see themselves, the human condition and our global obsessions in the context of an (as yet, maybe never) unfathomable universe.
Maybe it is the consequence of dwelling so remotely, where, like the countless dwellers on the ledge, I float in space every clear night that I go to check on the horses before bedtime; of approaching a milestone of loss.
Yes, I am feeling that distance from my father. I will be with him by the time you are reading this and will, no doubt, have walked the cliff-top coastal meadows of my Sheringham childhood. There, among the echoes, I will grapple with life choices, not least the troubling consequence of distancing myself and family from him for all but spasmodic weeks and days during the last 11 years.
He has always professed total understanding and given unquestioning support. But even so.
Whatever emotions flood, I will not be able to resist standing on what locals call The Bump (a clifftop hill, the residue of the ice age)  and searching the planets and stars. Strangely, it is always a great comfort.

Which begs this question for all governments: Can we turn out some lights please? It would save a significant amount of Pounds and Euros if all that matters is economics, and it may help people come to terms with the dark.

A culinary footnote. Two women have taken over a local restaurant. Not a good time to sally forth in business. Trade has not been brisk, so we decided to offer some support. Maggie and I try and go for a lunch once a month, spreading our custom among the local hostelries where you can get three courses and drinks for circa €12 a head.
We were the only people dining, but what the heck, it all seemed satisfactory …. until the dessert. I was particular excited by the option of a rice pudding sprinkled with cinnamon.
Two things rapidly became apparent. Clearly no one in the kitchen was capable of sprinkling, as not one grain of rice was visible through the thick layer of brown powder. Secondly, the same individual couldn’t tell the difference between cinnamon and paprika. You have to chuckle.
Keep well -  and Happy Christmas thoughts and best wishes to everyone out there from us all at Mother’s Garden.

Snake bite, bee stings and bales of hay

Thursday, June 2nd, 2011

The striped lizard zipped up to the plateau of the waist-high olive tree stump and looked down at our dogs.  Delirious, their noses fizzing with the scents of awakening life, the nutty hounds clawed at the earth and roots.
Content in the knowledge that they weren’t after a viper (and that their pencil thin prey clearly had a bigger brain than either of them) I walked on up the land to check on the ponies.
Remoli, now five, was distressed and whinnying. I’d tethered her to another olive tree half way along the track to the top vineyard, just 20 metres away from her mum, La Petita, on the longer rope with a grazing circle that encompassed alfalfa, assorted grasses, dandelions a wild vine and an abandoned hazel. Pony paradise, or so I’d thought.

Such alarm calls normally mean La Petita has slipped her halter again and drifted out of Remoli’s sight, but the old pony was still there, munching merrily. Then I saw that Remoli’s mouth and nose were swelling.
Snake. It must be. But where? Remoli was panting and straining to get as far away as possible from a small pile of oak logs half lost beneath burgeoning bramble. I prodded it pathetically with a stick and searched the area, but it was a useless. Needle and haystack.

When both ponies were back in the corral I raced past the lizard and burrowing dogs to check on the internet what drastic action to take, only to be horrified by a series of American sites that told of horses suffocating following a venomous bite on the nose. “Stick pipe up their nostrils” said one.

I rang the vet. To cut a morning to less than a minute, all turned out well. The vet was with us within the hour and administered something that settled both pony and the inflammation.

Yes, she confirmed, it most probably was a snake, but there was nothing as poisonous here as in America and she had never known of a horse dying after a snake bite.
Even so, we do have small vipers, similar to Adders in potency, and also the Montpellier, a distinctly not small serpent (up to two metres in length) with venom in fangs at the back of its mouth that will give you a nasty turn but won’t kill you unless you stick your finger down its throat which someone did, apparently, with dire consequence. The question was which had moved in.
A stupid question, of course, because given the wide variety of inhabitants on these ecological, overgrown acres it is a magnet for all manner of predators.
Montpellier it was, we feel sure now. A few days later two of these large-eyed, somewhat menacing snakes were found sunning themselves beside an olive tree, just five metres from where Remoli was bitten. It is the breeding season, so disturbing them didn’t help their disposition either. Montpelliers are known for their short fuses, and I backed away as one coiled, raised its head and inflamed its neck as if to strike.
No need to be reckless, Martin. Besides, I had barely recovered from the honey repercussions.
The storeroom now contains copious amounts of liquid nectar after my first harvest visit to the hives this year, and my ankles and calves still itch.
Like a fool, and hungry as a bear with very little between the ears, I had gone to the hives on the first calm, warm, clear day after a May storm. I usually take a little honey in mid May and some more at the end of June, then leave the bees to stock up for the winter, a rhythm that has suited everyone for five years. One hive has grown to two, then three, now four.

But golden honey rules include (as all keepers know), patience, a steady heart, timing and tucking your trousers into your boots or socks.

Ten-year-old Joe Joe was with me but I, dazzled by the amount of honey to be had, failed to note that a) there really wasn’t enough warmth in the days to draw out the bees, so the hives were packed, and b) my trouser bottoms were not secured.

As I was gently brushing the bees from the frames they were congregating on my shoes and walking north.

Joe Joe was better organised in the ankle department, but once a bee stings others immediately join in and he suffered too as his tracksuit bottoms proved too thin and he retreated, tearfully. I pressed on to tidy up and secure the hives, but all grace was gone and I Riverdanced across the meadow.

Joe Joe was being nursed by his mum in the kitchen when I staggered in,and I thought, that’s it – he will never want to go near the hives again. I, on the other hand, had to get my act together and get back out there, once the pain of the 16+ swellings had eased.

What transpired was, well, wonderful (on the whole). I returned to our little apiary later that afternoon, to apologise and to finish my work. My legs were stiff but not too bad, and by my side was my son, who flatly refused to be put off. We were calmer, better prepared and neither of us was stung again. Joe said no more about his pains as, in the shade of the wisteria behind the farmhouse, we span the frames and weighed 30lbs of honey.

I, on the other hand, could barely walk by this time. My ankles decided they had had enough punishment and I crawled off to bed.

May wasn’t finished yet by a long way. As always after an April drenching May stages its fiesta of existence. A Great Tit wafted into the kitchen and watched me writing, settling on top of the computer screen at one point. The Melodious Warbler in the pine above the corral has been beside himself for weeks, the Golden Orioles are tootling greetings in some distant chorus, while the cheeky Woodchat Shrike has returned to follow me around on the tractor as I cut the grass.

I am not the only one. In the puzzle of this life 1000 miles away we have missed our childhoods and adulthoods of Norfolk stubble fields and bales, of that great English sense of harvest done. Olive and almond groves and wavy lines of vines on ancient terraces have their own charm, yet different.

Well, how utterly enchanting, then, to find that a neighbour at the top of the valley but a mile from Mother’s Garden has grown, cut and baled straw – or is it hay? It is the first time we have seen such a local scene on such a scale and it closes distance in the blink of an eye every time we trundle past it. It could be Northrepps or Docking, but for the rugged skyline.

Now, before you all start writing to the editor saying “that’s definitely not hay, bor, that’s straw”, it was a fairly pure grass crop and they didn’t harvest any grain, so does that make it hay? Can any farmers in Norfolk tell me? I hear haymaking has started very early in East Anglia.

The year dawns crimson, and on we go

Monday, January 3rd, 2011

January 3, 2011. Barely a frost and still bone dry, to the point that we are wishing for rain. The midday temperature continues to float between 10 and 15 degrees, and the only white to be seen is the flash of a chaffinch wing.
These migrants outnumber the charms of goldfinches right now, while in the mountains yesterday, when we strolled to the ruins of a 2700-year-old Iberic village, our faces buzzing with the warmth, a red admiral butterfly emerged from the forest and settled in the sun on a bank.
Red sky in the morning, shepherd’s warning: Yet crimson crests have come to naught.

Mother’s Garden New Year resolutions are to take more strolls (researching at the same time more routes across the sierras wherefore to guide holiday cottage guests who have packed their walking books) and to meditate. We are mindful how valuable meditation has proved in the past, and we need it now as the workload grows not eases.
As I write, Maggie is resting after her operation this morning. A year ago she had a carpal tunnel operation on her right wrist. Today the consultant eased the pressure in her left wrist, hopefully ending sleepless nights of pins and needles and numbness.
I am itching to press on with office work and to find more chefs who want bulk fresh olive oil, but it is a holiday in the UK today. So I’ll pop the kettle on, take a mug to Maggie, walk the mutts and release the ponies to thunder back to their corral and buckets of feed.
I may even spend a happy half hour with the saw clearing another pine from the wished-for oak wood, where already birdsong has returned.

Kingfishers and moon mysteries

Friday, December 24th, 2010

December 23. Cotton wool clouds fill the valleys and we cannot see beyond the oaks to the east of the vineyard. This blanket has staved off the frost and weighed what leaves that linger with drops of water.

The promise is clear skies for Christmas Day, with high winds from the south west.
Mother’s Garden is sheltered by a limestone ridge and the conical mountain that is named La Miloquera after a long extinct bird and once dwelled upon it. You can see it in the picture above.
But when the wind comes from the south west it shakes everything, funnelled along the valley and east to Roman Tarragona and the ancient sea.
Recent wonders have been the iridescent feathers of a monarch and a great mystery of the moon.
First there came the kingfisher, sitting on a curled finger of the fig tree, just six feet from the study window and two feet above the old wash pool where up to twenty goldfish hide in the depths.  He or she cast that majestic colour twice in one day, and we wait for a further flash of blue and beauty in the corner of our eyes.
Then, late that evening, Maggie called us out into the full moon glow.  Look, she said, and I followed her gaze into the heavens. I didn’t notice at first, then my jaw dropped. Have you ever, on a clear full-moon night, seen a vast perfect ring of light fill half the sky, a celestial halo for earth’s satellite?
This, we discovered, is caused by moonlight being refracted by ice crystals in the upper atmosphere, and that folklore has it as a portent of bad weather.
Christmas Eve.  The temperature is dropping fast, encouraged by gales that have cleared much of the sky and polished the air.
The Spanish electricity board has sucked vital funds out of our account and so I have had to nip to town to catch the deputy bank manager’s eye.  Xavi is a good man who eased my money worries with tales of his childhood in the Terra Alta, the highlands to the south of us.
This morning the children have read to us from the Spanish novels that hold their eyes and minds, and this afternoon we will make mince pies to take as friendship gifts to our neighbours. With no television we will seek to contemplate, to share, to talk, to read and to celebrate family.
For all of you too far away we send love and peaceful thoughts for Christmas.
Hugs and good wishes to everyone who follows this blog, reads my books, buys our olive oil or has made their way to Mother’s Garden over the years.
Ella has just posted a little video of our book and olive oil tour to England. Enjoy.
Click here

We four, plus Tilly, Ted and Nell the tractor

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

In response to several requests here is an up-to-date photograph of the family, taken in the olive grove with our village in the background.

We are getting set for the harvest this coming weekend, when we will be joined by Australians, Canadians, French, Catalan and English for chat, steady labour, soup and, of course, Mother’s Garden olive oil.

I will also post some more pictures on our photo gallery. Promise.

Priorat wine tourism ripens like the fruit

Friday, October 15th, 2010

Are you into wine holidays? The Priorat, where we are based, is getting more and more “air time”, boasting as it does the DOQ Priorat and DO Montsant wine regions.

The latest feature is in the Wall Street Journal – see http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703440604575495512989053100.html

We bottled our 2009 vintage at the beginning of September, and yesterday finished harvesting the carinyena. Heavy rain over the past week didn’t help, but it looks as it we will match last year’s volume of 450 litres.The grenache has almost finished fermentation (those to the wise will know from the leaf that our grapes pictured here are grenache), and while we wait for the carinyena to start we are pressing unripe grapes for juice, which we will freeze.

Come to Mother’s Garden next summer and you can try some of our farm wine – we are taking holiday cottage bookings now for Easter 2011 onwards. This year we have enjoyed the company of wine connoisseurs from America, Spain and England, guiding them to small yet tremendous Priorat and Montsant cellars that are off the usual trails. See our holiday page.

As for the rest of the farm, we are getting set for the next two mighty challenges – what looks like being a bumper olive harvest in mid November, and our December return to England to market fresh extra virgin olive oil and my latest book, Shaking The Tree: Mother’s Garden – The Growing Years.

We will be publishing the preface and announcing book signings and olive oil events within two weeks, so keep an eye on the website.

Counting fruitful days to book launch

Sunday, October 3rd, 2010

Phew. It is done. We have agreed both the page proofs and the cover design for my latest book, Shaking The Tree, and publication will be on December 1.

I will give the exact details of the book signings (about 10 are planned so far in  England, including Oxfordshire, Yorkshire and East Anglia) within the next fortnight, along with the ISBN number and cover.

That is one of the reasons we have neglected the website during the last week, the others being wine harvest and Maggie going down with the flu, bless her. We have discussed more recipes and will sit down and file another one before Wednesday.

On the day of the national strikes in Spain the temperature dipped alarmingly and we lit the woodburner that evening and shut our bedroom window. I immediately started fretting about how long our stock of logs would last, but the days and nights have since returned to the expected autumn comfort zone, and the chickens are queuing again to drink from the wine barrel water butt.

There is a heavy dew at dawn, and the ajuntament is dishing out fire permits once again. I am itching to start wooding, clearing more space in the pine wood where, this spring, after hard labour last autumn, we saw bee orchids and other wild treasures rise from the blanket of pine needles. The labour also cuts fire risk and gives the timber time to season before it is needed for heat a little over a year from now.

Not that there is much spare time. Today we are moving furniture about in the cottage and I am installing a second woodburner to ensure our winter visitors are cosy. The main woodburner has always kept the rooms upstairs toasty, but the lounge and dining area downstairs has always needed supplementary heat.

In hindsight I shouldn’t have bought a woodburner that is set into the wall. It looks beautiful, but that doesn’t help when it is minus 12 outside. Has anyone else had the same problem? We spent an emotional weekend in a remote village in the high Pyrenees very recently (my next post), and a friend there was equally unhappy with his choice of woodburner.

With the book launch approaching, and our wish to devote more time to the farm and the fresh olive oil business, we have decided to take a six months breather from the holiday cottage, so until March it will be home to a family of French Canadians. We are taking bookings now for Easter onwards.

Meanwhile the figs plop to the ground faster than we can eat them, and we have discovered two sapling peach trees in the undergrowth, laden with fruit….

The 2009 vintage is bottled in the nick of time

Sunday, September 26th, 2010

Maybe it was a good thing that a fallen tree took out the phone line. Boy, has the wind been whistling in recent days, and the temperature at dawn has suddenly dropped way below t-shirt and shorts tolerance.

Being without phone or internet took our eye off the wider world and meant we could focus on our real world. Like gathering almonds, bottling last year’s wine, picking up walnuts, pressing unripe grapes for juice, planting winter veg …. and proof reading the new book, Shaking The Tree (publication date December 1, more news anon).

Under the watchful eyes of professional enologists Jose and Sandra we think our 2009 vintage is our finest – fruity, balanced and without a hint of contamination. Not that is a big deal; 425 litres in all from our little vineyards, combined with that of friends and neighbours Marta and Benet.

Wine buffs will want to know it is a blend of 60 per cent carinyena and 40 per cent garanche. It means we have enough to share with visitors through the year and to use for the bottling of fruits – plus the barn is almost clear now for us to start picking and processing the grenache (garnaxta in Catalan) next week. We haven’t treated the grapes with either sulphur or copper sulphate, but it still looks like we have a significant amount of fruit that is free of problems. We will know for sure very soon.

A short post, but will be back online in next couple of days …. possibly with another of Maggie’s recipes. Pears in red wine maybe.

Please note, though, that another 700 litres of yummy olive oil has just been bottled and shipped to England, for delivery early in October. We are taking orders now, so get in touch. We can deliver to anywhere in mainland Britain.

Let’s face up to it – we are meat eaters

Wednesday, September 22nd, 2010

The bell has tolled. The time has come to deal with one of the truths of our subsistence.

After lying wide awake in bed at some ridiculously early hour watching the sky turn from lead to gold we agreed the Mother’s Garden male voice choir’s time was up.

Notwithstanding some people’s sensibilities I need to relay what is happening right now down on the farm.

We are meat eaters. Never a lot, and less and less and less these days, but we still partake of  it once in a while, in family union Sunday roast feasts and assorted other dishes.

We have kept chickens during most of our time at Mother’s Garden, and for various reasons, none of them culinary, we have had to dispatch a few that had either survived a dog attack or grown so weak as to become the pitiful victims of the vicious pecking order. And, as I am sure you can imagine, there have beenother unavoidably grim mammal, reptile and insect moments as the circle of life spins around us.

Yes, the facts of death, in contrast to the rainbow wonders of farm life, are understood by all ages here, rightly so, with the unwritten yet essential accord that killing is only ever a last resort to end suffering (the serpent that had to ushered away from the back door last week being a case in point).

But there is another reason now.

We have never eaten any of our fowl before because their job description has clearly been to supply eggs not meat. So they live very long and happy lives laying in the mornings before free-ranging far and wide in the afternoons until, finally, they peg it.  There have been scores of them over the years and, of course, we get to appreciate their different characters. Early on we had the odd cockerel too, and it was the same story. It would be unbearably tough to kill and eat them, emotionally and otherwise.

But when we bought a box full of day-old black Vilafranca chicks in April this year we knew we were committing to something else. We wanted more hens to boost the ageing brood, yet also knew that, inevitably, their number would include males. These would be for the pot.

Of the 17 fluffy balls nine have turned out to be plump hens, meaning we have eight argumentative, boastful cockerels that pre-empt the dawn. Actually make that five.

We have always talked long and hard about the importance of food provenance and animal welfare, and have willing trailed miles to a village butcher’s shop where the husband and wife team rear their own livestock. But, for goodness sake, if we are really serious about it then we should be facing up to the realities and doing it ourselves. Farmer’s daughter Maggie, who has more experience of such matters than me, is in total agreement.

So we are doing it.

The John Seymour self-sufficiency book is open on the kitchen table, a 4lb 8oz roast chicken is on the menu this Sunday, and the freezer is full.

Almond grove rough ride because of the boar

Saturday, September 11th, 2010

Me and Nell, our 46 year old Massey Ferguson tractor, have just been rocking and rolling through the undergrowth in old almond grove.

The long-established fennel and other assorted wild plants that colonise everywhere the moment our back is turned (it’s a year since I cleared those terraces) cloaked the furrows and pits dug by wild boar. The cutter on the back of the tractor threw the sandy earth in all directions, but we got through.

We are late with the harvest, but all is almost clear for the gathering of what almonds the dying grove can offer. We will strim close to the trees now, set the nuts out to dry, then bag them next week, when thoughts will turn to bottling the 450 litres of wine in the barn. That must be done so we can clear the area and clean equipment in readiness for the grape harvest at the end of September. It is a dizzy time of the year, always.

So, back and forth I trundled this morning, heavy with a cold but still able to scent the cut fennel. There is a lot to think about. The proofing of  my next book is almost done, yet I am still finding things wrong. Shaking The Tree is due to be published on December 1, with book signings being planned for Oxfordshire, Norfolk, Yorkshire and possibly north London. I worry that it will be as well received as No Going Back – Journey to Mother’s Garden, which has sold nearly 32,000 copies now.

And there is something else to worry about. Screen East, a key funder of the Moon Daisy feature film project, based on my last book Count The Petals Of The Moon Daisy, has gone into receivership. I will write again soon about the challenges of getting a film made, but in the meantime, if anyone has a spare million in the bank and wants to be part of a project about English American history and the joyful truth of rural England, specifically the Norfolk Broads, then get in touch.

I’ll tell you something, though. There is nothing quite like an hour with Nell on the high terraces on a crisp September morning to clear the head and settle the heart.