organic farm

...now browsing by tag

 
 

Two mountains to climb as spring enraptures

Wednesday, March 27th, 2013

The storms have abated. The enraged river has lowered its voice.
Tiny insects, winged flecks of gold dust, sail through evening sunbeams. The shafts of light fan between the budding pear trees while the scent of freshly cut grass swells to meet them. Wild flowers, spring’s courtiers, bustle for attention fussed over by bees, and the call of the returning oriol and the drumming of the woodpecker proclaim abundance.
So strong is the beak of the bird that the rhythm rebounds off the mountain ridge, now snow free and sweetened by new growth on the pines. I sit by the talkative water pouring from our Roman aquifer at 1000 litres an hour, faster than it ever has in our 12 years at Mother’s Garden.
All is beginning and yet, perhaps, something is about to end.

Why would anyone think of leaving this? Yes, we are. Let me tell you why.

Some of you discerned in my last blob from the Garden that, after spending nearly a quarter of our lives here (and much of those of our children), Maggie and I seemed a little unsettled.
Indeed. We have been facing facts and agree it is time to take another deep breath, another positive stride.
Ella will be at university in England from September.  Joe is ready for new challenges too.
And we know that our growing fresh olive oil business in England can flow even faster if we give it more oxygen and cease gasping to fit it in between the increasingly demanding challenges of tending a multi-fruiting organic farm and running a holiday cottage.
How great the fulfilment of bending to the challenge of an ecological existence at an age when we still could bend. How much we have gleaned and stored. But the sheer physical endeavours are unsustainable, naturally, and like all we need to balance truths.
The creep of age is punctuated with stark waypoints, like the dismantling of the long-unsafe tree-house, the suddenly impossible flexibility of seeing the soles of my shoes without taking them off.
And there is another reason to recalibrate. I crave time to write daily, to unburden my cerebral filing cabinet of tales. There is the Norfolk film script Moon Daisy now looking for funding (more next month), with another script and two books in the wings. Maggie, my editor, could not be more supportive.

So…..
Plan A: To relinquish this treasure trove of 10 acres and to base ourselves in South Norfolk, buying a smaller olive grove here and returning regularly to tend olives and beehives: to remain members of the cooperative and build on all we have learned and shared.
Plan B: To sell the cottage and half the farm, and keeping the old farmhouse and olive grove as our business base while spending the majority of our time in England, closer to family, renting somewhere, and bandwaggoning the Mother’s Garden olive oil message hither and thither.

We shall see what plan comes to fruition. If anyone would like to discuss one or other we would be happy to chat.

It seems now like we are in the eye of the storm, with the troubled waters of decision behind us and the unchartered upheaval ahead. We wait as news spreads, hoping that the right person will appear, appreciative of the magic and wisdom to be found here; someone who will love it.
And now that we are decided there is great optimism and certainty.
Without sadness but with immense gratitude to my family  and with brimful fulfilment I see the momentous years everywhere I turn, and feel them; the shadows of tiny children running bare-footed after puppies; splashes of freedom and glee; shouts of adventure from the woodland; harvests of the garden, grove, vineyard and the wild; Maggie planting, pruning and choosing roses for the table, out there until dusk, then standing with me by the back door to feast upon the stars; the weight of my son on my forearm, his fist full of asparagus: And louder than all, the music of innumerable treasured evenings when our kitchen became a dance theatre and forever more the heart of everything that really matters in the precious feeling of this family, this life.
There – my heart thumps at the thought of leaving our kitchen.  The head needs to prevail in the ubiquitous human wrestling of standstill wishes with relentless realities.

The immeasurable worth of nature is the most important thing we have learned above all. Seeded in it is sustenance, realistic values and fulfilments, the core roots of family. I make no apology for raising my voice now and in the future about the abject failure and greedy resistance of society’s single-minded economic dictators to change course.
Common sense and conscience: we all know what feels wrong, what is unfair, unsustainable, illogical, damaging, hollow and abhorrent. Heaven knows what our children and grandchildren will make of this woeful generation of leaders for not deal with the glaringly obvious home truths.
What will the legacy be?
In rambling to photograph the raging river I paused twice, once to ponder on the significance of the long-deceased Seat 500 on our neighbour’s farm, and then again to stare at another mountain we have just climbed.
Ella and Joe have been planning a fund-raising ascent of La Mola, the Snowdonia-sized limestone monolith that watches over us. If that wasn’t a great enough endeavour theypledged to their generous £800 Comic Relief sponsors that they would spend the night up there. Mmm.
We have done it now. A rare and unforgettable experience that I will tell you about soon.
Theirs have been relatively wild childhoods, freer than most if you dare to dwell upon the unbelievable pressure applied to the young these days in ways that families cannot hope to protect them from. Bean-counting pedlars who think it is fine to rob them of their innocence and herd them into anxiety-driven consumerism make me so very angry, but not as much as does the system that encourages them.

Sorry. I do this a lot don’t I?

On a positive note, I do sense an awakening of public conscience to the destructive, materialistic, blind path along which we have all be led.
Can I leave you with others’ wise words? I have just read the allegorical tale The Man Who Planted Trees, by Frenchman Jean Giono (1895-1971). If you don’t know it, let me tell you it is of the greatest beauty, something that simply gifts the notion, the hope, that we can renew the whole earth: That in the living force of nature humanity can rediscover the depth and harmony lost in urban life. The edition I hold, one of more than a dozen issued since Vogue first published it in 1953, has the added delicacy of woodcut illustrations by Michael McCurdy.
And then to Adrian Bell. All his books rise in a Pisa pile beside our bed. So much wisdom.

“We clutter the minds and call it knowledge.  Why, if a man knew intimately the story of what lies between the soil in his right hand and the flour in his left, he would be splendidly, superbly, educated. In our so-called education we substitute written notes for memory. Notes are dissected bones, memory is alive, imaginative. We cram the youth with facts and figures and take away from the man the one thing needful for his manhood, the power to be alone with himself in nature.

“Britain has many places of wild beauty, and many gentle places of seclusion. He may stand on a height surveying six counties or in a corner of an orchard watching a bird building its nest. It is all one. If that power of vision were held intact through the difficult years from his childhood, he would need but few of those facts as a foundation on which to build a complete life. Multiplicity of materials does not build beauty but babel.”

Keep well.

Weighty challenge at time of abundance

Monday, September 6th, 2010

The main courgette flourish is long gone, giving rise at its fridge and freezer-filling height to vast quantities of chilled courgette soup, potato and courgette omelette and ratatouille. They are still coming, though, encouraged by our wine barrel water butt.

Finally the tomatoes are relenting.  The beef ones weighed in at a pound apiece, and no sooner had we worked out what to do with a basket full then it was time to harvest more. But boy were they tasty.

There are still almost daily handfuls of cherry tomatoes and peppers, for salads or to roast with other vegetables from the garden, such as aubergine, garlic and onion and, of course, courgette, with fresh basil and lashings of Mother’s Garden extra virgin olive oil.

I am typing at the kitchen table and Maggie, Ella and Joe are at the other end, having a breather from the vegetables by coring and chopping apples to make the utterly circumknockerating family apple chutney recipe as passed down by mother Beryl (of Mattishall), who has just broken off from making tomato chutney at her farmhouse table to give us a call. See recipe page.

It has been helpful that holiday cottage visitors have been tucking in to baskets full of our vegetables, and in exchange we have a few euros and more recipes, such as Jonathan of West Sussex’s roast tomato pasta sauce. I will post this tomorrow (if I can lay my hands on it.)

As for the spuds, the only varieties available this year were kennebec and red pontiac. Were that we had more choice of seed potatoes hereabouts, but the crop (four brimming wheelbarrows) was satisfactory, with several box loads stored for the winter.  We ploughed through the damaged ones, cutting up anything edible and making patatas a lo pobre, described in our essential Moro Cookbook  as the delicious combination of large Spanish onions, garlic and long green peppers, and a large quantity of potato wedges, tossed together, seasoned and slowly cooked in olive oil.

In the middle of this time of plenty we wandered out into the summer heat to pick elderberries for Maggie’s apple and elderberry syrup and jelly, with an heirloom shepherd’s crook to encourage the branches to bow within reach. Then we swung by the lower terrace to see how the pears were coming along, only to find them ripe, and to discover the artwork of a nest that had been weaved from dried iris leaves. Can any birders among you advise which bird may have created this? Blackbird perhaps?

Such an overwhelming time of plenty, when entwined with a resolution to waste nothing, can, if you are not too careful, water the notion that you can have too much of a good thing.

Thank goodness for bird nest moments to break our pace.

Facing up to truth as a meat eater

Friday, September 3rd, 2010

The bell has tolled. The time has come to deal with one of the truths of our subsistence. After lying wide awake in bed at some ridiculously early hour watching the sky turn from lead to gold we agreed the Mother’s Garden male voice choir’s time was up.

Notwithstanding some people’s sensibilities, I need to relay what is happening right now down on the farm. We are meat eaters. Never a lot, and less and less and less these days; but we still partake of  it once in a while, in family union Sunday roast feasts and assorted other dishes.

We have kept chickens during most of our time at Mother’s Garden, and for various reasons, none of them culinary, we have had to dispatch a few that had either survived a dog attack or grown so weak as to become the pitiful victims of the vicious pecking order. And, as I am sure you can imagine, there have been other unavoidably grim mammal, reptile and insect moments as the circle of life spins around us.

Yes, the facts of death, in contrast to the rainbow wonders of farm life, are understood by all ages here, rightly so, with the unwritten yet essential accord that killing is only ever a last resort to end suffering (the serpent that had to ushered away from the back door last week being a case in point).

But there is another reason now.

We have never eaten any of our fowl before because their job description has clearly been to supply eggs not meat. So they live very long and happy lives laying in the mornings before free-ranging far and wide in the afternoons until, finally, they peg it.  There have been scores of them over the years and, of course, we get to appreciate their different characters. Early on we had the odd cockerel too, and it was the same story. It would be unbearably tough to kill and eat them, emotionally and otherwise.

But when we bought a box full of day-old black Vilafranca chicks in April this year we knew we were committing to something else. We wanted more hens to boost the ageing brood, yet also knew that, inevitably, their number would include males. These would be for the pot.

Of the 17 fluffy balls nine have turned out to be plump hens, meaning we have eight argumentative, boastful cockerels that pre-empt the dawn. Actually make that seven.

We have always talked long and hard about the importance of food provenance and animal welfare, and have willing trailed miles to a village butcher’s shop where the husband and wife team rear their own livestock. But, for goodness sake, if we are really serious about it then we should be facing up to the realities and doing it ourselves. Farmer’s daughter Maggie, who has more experience of such matters than me, is in total agreement.

So we are doing it.

The John Seymour self-sufficiency book is open on the kitchen table, and a 4lb 8oz roast chicken is on the menu. Anybody out there in the same situation, trying to face up the truth of being carnivores? What is better – fresh meat from an animal that has had a good life and not been pumped with goodness knows what, or never being sure?

Helping hands as we think ahead to winter

Saturday, August 21st, 2010

Just a brief post of thanks to tractor drivers and timber gatherers James Proctor and Stuart Dallas who have been such willing workers down on the farm.

After a week of sterling endeavour the wood store is almost full and we have pumped the wine ready for bottling. The trunks of trees felled last year by helper Harry have been dragged from the woodland, cut, split and stacked, and I don’t think we have ever been so well prepared for winter.

Every year we have young helpers from around the world, a vital part of our existence as we grow older and less able to keep up the pace,  and they all leave a page or two of memories and character in the ongoing story of Mother’s Garden.

Today there are 14 people on the farm; guests in the cottage, the family in the farmhouse and helpers out in the caravan beneath the walnut tree. Tomorrow is change-over day and come sunset we will be 18. The tent is already up and pegged in readiness.  Joe and his friend Aidan will be out there, sharing the night with the wild boar, while making room in the farmhouse for Mioi and Serena from Vancouver who are returning after backpacking across the Iberian mountains.

Mioi, the grandson of Maggie’s godparents, was first with us nine years ago. He and Serena spent July studying Spanish in Galicia before coming to Catalonia, leaving a vast suitcase and then setting off for Seville. By Tuesday they will be back in British Columbia.
Such are the comings and goings from around the world. Maggie and I sat down yesterday and worked out that we as a family have not been alone on the farm for seven months. Mmmm.

(The almonds are ready, so the task for the week ahead and the next group of willing workers is abundantly clear.)